Dermapen and microneedling: what they do for the skin and what to expect

Are Dermapen and microneedling the same thing?

Microneedling is the name of the technique. Dermapen is a brand of motorised, pen-shaped device used to perform this procedure. At the end there is a cartridge of microneedles that move vertically and whose depth can be adjusted by the professional.

This distinction is useful because not all equipment, consumables or protocols are equivalent. Conventional microneedling should also not be confused with radiofrequency microneedling: in the latter, the needles deliver thermal energy to the tissue and the risk profile is different.

How does it work on the skin?

Microneedles create small, controlled perforations. The skin responds through its repair process, in which collagen and elastin participate. The improvement is not immediate: it happens progressively, as the tissue reorganises itself.

Depth, speed and number of passes are not a fixed recipe. A superficial mark, a deeper scar and sensitized skin require different decisions. Higher intensity does not, in and of itself, mean a better result — it may just increase discomfort, inflammation, and recovery time.

For what purposes can it be considered?

Microneedling is often considered to improve the appearance of the skin without changing facial features. Evidence is more consistent for certain atrophic acne scars; it may also be considered for fine lines, uneven texture and signs of photoageing.

Does not erase scars, does not permanently close pores and does not produce “textureless” skin. The responsible objective is a gradual and proportional improvement to the starting point.

• Visually reduce some acne marks and scars.
• Smooth uneven texture and the appearance of pores.
• Improve the appearance of fine lines and photoaged skin.
• Support a skincare plan for a more even, radiant complexion.

What happens during the session and during recovery?

After cleansing and preparing the skin, a topical anaesthetic may be applied according to the protocol. The practitioner treats one area at a time, adjusting the settings. You may feel pressure, vibration, warmth or stinging; tolerance varies from person to person.

In the following hours, redness, a sensation of heat, tightness and slight swelling are common. The skin may become more sensitive and peel in the following days. The FDA also mentions less common risks, such as pigmentation changes, herpes reactivation, infection and scarring.

Sun protection, gentle moisturising and a simplified routine are essential. Retinoids, acids, exfoliants, strong fragrances and make-up may need to be paused temporarily — always follow the advice given for your skin.

Who should postpone or avoid the procedure?

A careful evaluation should exclude active infection, herpes, wounds, sunburn, painful inflammatory acne or other changes that need to be treated first. Tendency for keloids, difficulty in healing, compromised immunity, active skin disease or some medications can also change the decision.

Tell the team about pregnancy, medication, isotretinoin, anticoagulants, allergies to anaesthetics, a history of herpes and recent procedures. The aim is not to proceed at any cost, but to determine whether this is the right time and procedure for you.

When do results appear and how many sessions are needed?

Some people notice brighter skin after the initial recovery, but collagen remodelling takes weeks to months. Scars and changes in texture tend to require a series of sessions, with intervals to allow the skin to recover.

There is no single number of sessions for everyone. The plan should specify the goal, how progress will be monitored and when it will be reassessed. Photographs taken with the same lighting, position and distance are more useful than comparing your skin with other people’s results.